How long has your ekit lasted?

You use mostly Yamaha pads if I recall? Are those pretty universal or do they only play nice with yammy brains?

I have pads from Ultimate Percussion, Yamaha, Roland, Pintech, generic Medeli (branded with different names), and weird things like LP Spikes etc. (and a tonne of Multipad things). Oh and some DIY pads. And external triggers.

In general pads are pads - in that 99% use the same tech for decades - a simple 50 cent/pence piezo. The differences come in how people implement multiple zones. So for drum pads this can be piezo for head, then 1 or 2 switches for rim(s) (typically rubber or silicone pads) OR piezo for head and piezo for rim (mesh pads). Cymbal pads are piezo for bow and 1 or 2 switches for edge and bell.

SO - most pads work on most things as single zone - I've never really had an issue plugging any of the above mentioned into anything, TBH. All kicks work on everything pretty much for example.

It's the way 3 zones are implemented where you get a difference - Yamaha will send 3-zones down a single TRS cable, on say a cymbal pad (also on Yamaha's 3-zone drum pads); others will use typically two cables on cymbals. Yamaha's tech is really simple/clever (been about for over a couple of decades) - piezo picks up the hit (as with all pads), the two switches in a 3-zone cymbal or 3-zone drum pad have a different resistance. So the module can work out which switch combination was closed on a hit detection - none closed = bow, closed with one resistance = edge, closed with different resistance = bell, for example. (or head + cross-stick + rim-shot on a 3-zone drum pad - two different, separated rim zones)

You can use 3-zone Yamaha cymbals on Roland for example - but you need to do a little hacking to get 3-zones - see convos on vdrums.com for Roland people who've done that (install a separate jack to run a second cable). You can also use 3-zone Yamaha cymbals as two zones on many things out of the box - but the bell and edge maybe combined as other modules can only detect a switch has closed, but can't differentiate which switch.

Yamaha's latest DTX6/8/10 kits use piezo/piezo for drums whether the heads are mesh or silicone. The 3-zone cymbals are as above - 3-zones down one cable.
 
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I have a Roland TD-11, which is an older model. I bought it used and only replace the rubber bannana thing in the hi-hat pedal which is common.
Everything else still work perfectly!
 
While I don't have all the first hand experience that you do I do generally agree with all of the above. Last time I looked at Lemon cymbals you could get an 18" 3 zone ride for under $200 US, that's cheaper then most budget line bronze cymbals.
Absolutely. You can get a 20" ride now for not much more, and I just go sent the 14" hi hats from Lemon to review on my YT channel. They look really solid. Would I be confident to say that they'll last 10+ years like the big brands will? No. But the prices are crazy low so you can't go wrong really.
 
Have any e-kit users upgraded the controller/brain?
Yeah constantly swapping modules between kits. Have a look at the YT channel in my signature. Currently on my test bed is:
- Pearl Mimic Pro
- Efnote 7
- 2Box Drumit5
- A whole bunch of old Roland modules from the ancient TD3 onwards...

The good thing is that Roland-style cymbals will work with all modules other than Yamaha (unless you use a Zourman adapter), and Yamaha cymbals will general work as crashes (but not in 3 zone unless you use an adapter).

As for drum pads I'm using heaps of different ones swapped between all the modules - Roland ones, Efnote, and a myriad of A2E conversion using:
- Drum-tec (Germany)
- Jobeky (UK)
- Diamond Electronic Drums (UK)
- Extreme Drums (USA)
- Convertible Percussions (USA)
Vukan from Triggera drums is sending me one of his kick drum triggers next from the Balkans, and Lemon have just sent me their new 14" hi hats to test.

(Again see channel in signature if interested).

How come? What sort of module did you want to swap and for what kit? :)
 
I’ve gone through various Roland product. TD3, TD6, TD4, TD9, TD11.
Updated stuffs constantly.
I really find them reliable despite the treatment I give to them. Moving them bashing them.
Even the racks are pretty sturdy.
I went hybrid recently with a td-9. Keeping cymbals and rack.
The tweaking I’ve done :
Of course the rubber actuator in the hi hat pedal, I repaired the foam of the kick KD-9, and recently I cracked the mesh head of the PDX-12. The head is expensive.
I buy a lot second hand. So I was able to update the cymbals, pads without too much pain.
 
How come? What sort of module did you want to swap and for what kit?
Because I'm circling the e-kit options like a curious squirrel. I've not played my acoustic kit out for over two years, yet I've played my SPD-SX out virtually every week since then. While working in New Hampshire early this month, I visited Drum Center of Portsmouth and fussed with all the kits they had on display, including the SPD-SX Pro and the Handsonic.

As I played the various kits, I noticed some controllers were simple (e.g., TD-17) and others looked more complex/advanced (e.g., V71, EF-Note Pro). I wondered if using a simple brain/controller locked the user into that module, forcing a complete upgrade (which you've indicated is not the case).
 
My “club kit” was the TD-11, I shifted to a TD-9. I upgraded the sounds in it with a drum-tec sound bank.
Though older, I prefer the Td-9 because it’s easier to modify the sound quickly. In live situation, it’s often needed to adapt some levels on the fly.
I must say that the drum-tec sound bank sounds much better.
 
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Because I'm circling the e-kit options like a curious squirrel. I've not played my acoustic kit out for over two years, yet I've played my SPD-SX out virtually every week since then. While working in New Hampshire early this month, I visited Drum Center of Portsmouth and fussed with all the kits they had on display, including the SPD-SX Pro and the Handsonic.

As I played the various kits, I noticed some controllers were simple (e.g., TD-17) and others looked more complex/advanced (e.g., V71, EF-Note Pro). I wondered if using a simple brain/controller locked the user into that module, forcing a complete upgrade (which you've indicated is not the case).
If you have the SPD-SX why not just hook up a snare pad, bass pad, and some cymbal pads and use it as a portable ekit? Expands upon its current size and gives you more of a "kit" feel will not requiring a whole new ekit purchase and still keeping your footprint minimal.
 
How old is your ekit?

Over time, has it lost any sensitivity? If so, have you been able to fix it?
I bought an Alesis DM5 module in…..2008 I believe, then an Alesis I/o interface around that same time, I built my own pads and if I still had them they would still work.
Then around 2013 I bought a Roland TD11 which I still have and use, then about two years ago I bought a TD27 which combined with the TD 11 and a bunch of other pads are my current kit.
I have not had issues with anything losing sensitivity, but if you do, all you have to do is replace the foam cones. They sell those at Amazon or Drumtec or elsewhere and the issue will be resolved. If you don’t know how to solder, plenty of YT tutorials and the stuff needed is less than $20, you can probably even find your specific model kit and someone showing how to fix it.
 
Sensors are cheap and easy to fix in regular drums. It only gets problematic with the cymbal edge and bell membranes and digital pads, though I've seen the whole Roland digital snare basket being sold separately. Roland hihat pedal sensors can also be bought, but other brands not. Most issues there come from the rubber actuator though which is also easy to fix or cheap to replace. Modules usually last, but if not, that's a bigger issue. Some older Rolands like TD12, 20 are notorious for fading/dying LCDs that are difficult and expensive to replace.
There is a place that sells those screen replacements for about $100 Look for digital drummer mag.com under resources and find the module, it will help.
 
I have a Roland TD-11, which is an older model. I bought it used and only replace the rubber bannana thing in the hi-hat pedal which is common.
Everything else still work perfectly!
I replaced the hi hat cymbal for a goedrum controller to be able to use a hi hat stand, it works flawlessly I only replaced it because I got the TD27 digital pads. I highly recommend the Goedrum controller.
 
I’ve gone through various Roland product. TD3, TD6, TD4, TD9, TD11.
Updated stuffs constantly.
I really find them reliable despite the treatment I give to them. Moving them bashing them.
Even the racks are pretty sturdy.
I went hybrid recently with a td-9. Keeping cymbals and rack.
The tweaking I’ve done :
Of course the rubber actuator in the hi hat pedal, I repaired the foam of the kick KD-9, and recently I cracked the mesh head of the PDX-12. The head is expensive.
I buy a lot second hand. So I was able to update the cymbals, pads without too much pain.
I made my own splitters for the TD11 toms and was able to add 4 extra cymbals 1 of them using the module aux input which allows it to be a double zone, the other 3 using the tom rims but they became single zone which is fine for China and a couple of splashes. Of course now I am using the TD 27 and the TD11 in tandem so I can have tons of pads without needing to split and even more if I used splitters, the issue then becomes available rack space to mount everything.
 
Mine are home-made. Recently...I started installing better jacks and pots as the first amazonian brands were....no good. Piezos...cones...fine.
Parts Express....yes.6-20-25 SA ekit 17.jpg
So..a few years old and growing.
Maintenance is easy on mine. Designed that way.
I knew I would be workin' in there.
I use the 2 zones per input...but trigger the second zone...from another drum.
I use an ancient Alesis IO. I am getting fair 2 zone triggering from all inputs...except for the RIDE.
He doesn't like it......yet.
 
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If you have the SPD-SX why not just hook up a snare pad, bass pad, and some cymbal pads and use it as a portable ekit? Expands upon its current size and gives you more of a "kit" feel will not requiring a whole new ekit purchase and still keeping your footprint minimal.
Nice idea!

One thing I really like about the SPD-SX "rig" is the portability. I carry the pad unit with a KT-10 pedal in a case, my throne and drum stand in a hardware bag, and an EV ZLX-12BT for my floor monitor (it has an XLR output for FOH use). Setup takes about 5 minutes, tops. I'm now the laziest drummer I know.

I've even considered a Zendrum 'cuz of its portability. Plus, I've seen Future Man perform with one and it absolved any doubts about the instrument or the rhythms & sounds one can generate from it.

I saw someone's post here of his DTX8 kit and thought it'd be possible to simply disconnect the wires and schlep the entire rack with pads into my truck bed for use at gigs. The thought of a complete disassembly & reassembly for playing out was a turn-off ('Cuz I'm now the laziest drummer on Earth).
 
Nice idea!

One thing I really like about the SPD-SX "rig" is the portability. I carry the pad unit with a KT-10 pedal in a case, my throne and drum stand in a hardware bag, and an EV ZLX-12BT for my floor monitor (it has an XLR output for FOH use). Setup takes about 5 minutes, tops. I'm now the laziest drummer I know.

I've even considered a Zendrum 'cuz of its portability. Plus, I've seen Future Man perform with one and it absolved any doubts about the instrument or the rhythms & sounds one can generate from it.

I saw someone's post here of his DTX8 kit and thought it'd be possible to simply disconnect the wires and schlep the entire rack with pads into my truck bed for use at gigs. The thought of a complete disassembly & reassembly for playing out was a turn-off ('Cuz I'm now the laziest drummer on Earth).
Take a scroll through this thread I started a few years back, most of the same people who are talking here also posted in my thread. This will give you some ideas with what you can do before you spring for a full ekit.

 
Mine are home-made. Recently...I started installing better jacks and pots as the first amazonian brands were....no good. Piezos...cones...fine.
Parts Express....yes.View attachment 158819
So..a few years old and growing.
Maintenance is easy on mine. Designed that way.
I knew I would be workin' in there.
I use the 2 zones per input...but trigger the second zone...from another drum.
I use an ancient Alesis IO. I am getting fair 2 zone triggering from all inputs...except for the RIDE.
He doesn't like it......yet.
I used the Alesis I/O with Steven Slate because obviously the I/O is not a module so you need a VST to trigger anything. it worked flawlessly. One thing to know is that not all outputs are double zone in the I/O so you might be using one for the ride that is not... second thing the I/O has been discontinued but you can get the exact same module by doing a search for used ones and then have over 22 outputs and not have to worry about anything not being double or triple zone if you need it.. they should be cheap enough by now. Also just curious, some of the pads in your kit must be cymbals even though they look like toms.... why haven't you bought the cheap Pintech cymbals and use those? I got mine in 2009 and still use some of them in my current kit with no issues.


Then for the hi hats use this:

As I said before, it works flawlessly and you can use a real hi hat stand and only need one cymbal pad. but if you want to go more fancy there is this one:


None of them are on the expensive side so you can get your kit looking and working even better overtime.
Back when I was making my kit, none of those companies existed so the only ones available where Roland and they were ridiculously expensive for a poor guy like me. (at the time).

Still my idea always was to make my own pads, then upgrade things little by little until my kit was perfect (for me).
I started by buying a pair of toms form the pawn show for $50, I cut those toms in half and they looked ok, I bought a set of Pintech cymbals , I had an Alesis DM5 at the time, but very soon after I got the I/O and bought Steven Slate drums, then about 3 years later I bought the Roland TD11, got rid of my DIY pads and kept the Pintech cymbals which I added to the TD11 by using my DIY splitters.
I followed this guide and just made my own but with just cables:
I bought the Goedrum hi hat controller to upgrade the hats, and found 5 Roland mesh pads from a TD20 on sale on Ebay and I bough those, I never tested them with my TD11 kit because I bought the TD27 soon after so I only added 2 toms to theTD27 so I could have a 5 tom setup (my current configuration) with (as of now) 8 cymbals, clearly I can add more cymbals because most of the inputs on the TD11 are not being used.

Back in the day kit with the DM5:
*Edit I forgot I bought a Roland FD8 hi hat pedal at the time because I didn't (and still don't) know how to make my own hi hat pedal. so now I have 2 FD8 pedals, that first one and the one that came with the TD11. Second the sound is bad because I was overdriving the input on the camera, I had just figured out how to connect my drum module to the camera and didn't think to turn down the input, but in my headphones it sounded great, which makes me think, the DM5 still has a lot of usable sounds so I might add it to my kit just for a few pads to be used for those. (maybe add the 3 rubber pads that came with the TD11 as cowbell, clap, and a third one or fourth one if I add the mesh snare for whatever else I think could work).

Later with the Roland TD11 and the extra Pintech cymbals:


Present time with the TD27 and the TD11:


The next "upgrade" is going to be using real bass drums (heavily muffled) and Footblasters (because they are more accurate, not that my current Roland pads have any issues being accurate, but if you want the real bass drum feel... use a real bass drum) plus they just look better than the small kick pad. That and converting my acoustic shells into electronic for the looks only because I want my kit to look the part...
Of course every time I want to upgrade or work on anything drum related, a new life change happens and I have to put it on hold, I am retired from the military but I work much longer hours now... currently on the hunt for a real job in an office out of the GA sun and with air conditioning.
 
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Thanks Mr. Dog. I don't have a cymbal yet....because I have been trying to make my own stuff.
That 18" Pintech looks cool.
Will it talk to the Alesis IO?
My problem with the IO is....seperating the 2 zones on an input.
I get ghost notes of the other zone when I play real softly.
Tried some resistors across from A to B....but did not get it right....yet.
Thanks for the good info.
 
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