Tested the Roland quiet kit

Your request will be filed at the bottom of the todo pile ;-)

DB-25 cable boom:

Pros:
  • Obviously it is easy to connect to the module.
  • You cannot make mistakes connecting the pads/cymbals to the module inputs.
  • The cable set is pretty neatly tied together.
Cons:
  • The cables are different lengths (at least my TD-9 cable boom), aimed at a regular setup.
    If you move gear around, like I have my hihat over to the other side as I play openhanded, the hihat cables are too short.
    You cannot swap it for a longer one but need extension cables.
  • If the DB-25 connector fails, you need a new expensive cable harness.
  • Related: if one cable or its connector fails you cannot swap it out for a new cable. You either need to repair it or get a new cable boom.
I got a replacement cable for $50 or 60 so not that expensive for peace of mind. I have never have any of those fail me but I still got one because I rock 2 modules that just so happen to use the same cable. On the other hand it is really easy to make a breakout box that you connect all the cables from the DB connector to and from the box.
You can make custom cables to fit any configuration you want. I plan to do that and make a video of the entire process for anyone that wants to do it too.
It is as simple as buying a patch bay and using it's through setting I believe you can find one for about $80 or you can make your own for about the same money but yours will be custom to you so there's that.
I just barely have time to rest these days so that may not happen for a while.
If you don't want to go through all that trouble. you can just get female to female adaptors and connect the module cables to them and your custom length cables to the other end, it will work the exact same way as the breakout box but without the box so it may be more messy but if you only need to do that for say your hi hats then it's not too bad.
you can also try this :


But I still think the box is a cleaner setup.
 
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I got a replacement cable for $50 or 60 so not that expensive for peace of mind. I have never have any of those fail me but I still got one because I rock 2 modules that just so happen to use the same cable. On the other hand it is really easy to make a breakout box that you connect all the cables from the DB connector to and from the box.
You can make custom cables to fit any configuration you want. I plan to do that and make a video of the entire process for anyone that wants to do it too.
It is as simple as buying a patch bay and using it's through setting I believe you can find one for about $80 or you can make your own for about the same money but yours will be custom to you so there's that.
I just barely have time to rest these days so that may not happen for a while.
If you don't want to go through all that trouble. you can just get female to female adaptors and connect the module cables to them and your custom length cables to the other end, it will work the exact same way as the breakout box but without the box so it may be more messy but if you only need to do that for say your hi hats then it's not too bad.
you can also try this :


But I still think the box is a cleaner setup.
Yes, I know and I've soldered custom cables for myself and others as well.
But good quality cable and connectors are not cheap and it takes time to build them.
Then I wonder if a DB cable 'spaghetti' is worth it over regular jack cables.
 
Yes, I know and I've soldered custom cables for myself and others as well.
But good quality cable and connectors are not cheap and it takes time to build them.
Then I wonder if a DB cable 'spaghetti' is worth it over regular jack cables.
I just see it as lugging one cable vs multiple which adds to the chances of losing one. Yes it takes time to build them but once you do, you rid yourself of messy extra cable lengths or cables that are strained because they are barely long enough. And yes quality is NOT cheap.
 
And yes quality is NOT cheap.
Regarding that: several times I've bought good quality cables on sale and cut them in half to solder on only one connector.
It was cheaper than buying the cable and 2 connectors separately.

But maybe we're deviating too much from the original topic...
 
I got a replacement cable for $50 or 60 so not that expensive for peace of mind. I have never have any of those fail me but I still got one because I rock 2 modules that just so happen to use the same cable. On the other hand it is really easy to make a breakout box that you connect all the cables from the DB connector to and from the box.
You can make custom cables to fit any configuration you want. I plan to do that and make a video of the entire process for anyone that wants to do it too.
It is as simple as buying a patch bay and using it's through setting I believe you can find one for about $80 or you can make your own for about the same money but yours will be custom to you so there's that.
I just barely have time to rest these days so that may not happen for a while.
If you don't want to go through all that trouble. you can just get female to female adaptors and connect the module cables to them and your custom length cables to the other end, it will work the exact same way as the breakout box but without the box so it may be more messy but if you only need to do that for say your hi hats then it's not too bad.
you can also try this :


But I still think the box is a cleaner setup.
There is a great breakout box and a breakout loom made by Design A Cable in the UK. There are a few others that make them periodically but I think you have to get them made to order.
 
Then I wonder if a DB cable 'spaghetti' is worth it over regular jack cables.
If the DB-25 connector was the clear winner, I think Roland would've used it in their V71 controller.

v71_back_gal.jpg
 
The cable requirements are probably different for live playing and home. In live situations, swapping a single cable sounds easier and snake wires seem a little thinner and more fragile to me, but for a home kit that you set up just once, it should be fine. I never had an issue with them, but it can be a problem for regular people who can't solder or might have pets to chew on wires. And those who can only afford a 500-dollar kit, a $60 cable loom is a big expense. Even though, buying the same number of individual cables could be more expensive.
 
There is a great breakout box and a breakout loom made by Design A Cable in the UK. There are a few others that make them periodically but I think you have to get them made to order.
Do you have a link for it?
If the DB-25 connector was the clear winner, I think Roland would've used it in their V71 controller.

v71_back_gal.jpg
It is not, but it is used to save space (and money due to not having to build all that into a module). Of course when you get a flagship you expect to have also multiple outputs which both the V71 and the TD50 have, however, the TD27 can record I believe 25 tracks of multitrack audio without needing an interface, the TD50 can only output 16 and I am not sure how many the V71 outputs.
To me the only reason to have one of those modules would be to use those outputs live directly to a console, but you would usually send cymbals to a bus, toms to another bus, and snare and bass drum to their own channel so you can do that with the TD27 so that reduces the reason to get a TD50 or V71 to..... you have a few more things you can adjust (as if you don't have enough to adjust in the TD27).
Maybe the main reason for me would be the new digital snare strainer/multi function button which makes it quite cool and unique.
 
Regarding that: several times I've bought good quality cables on sale and cut them in half to solder on only one connector.
It was cheaper than buying the cable and 2 connectors separately.

But maybe we're deviating too much from the original topic...
Anything helps those who want to learn something.
 
The cable requirements are probably different for live playing and home. In live situations, swapping a single cable sounds easier and snake wires seem a little thinner and more fragile to me, but for a home kit that you set up just once, it should be fine. I never had an issue with them, but it can be a problem for regular people who can't solder or might have pets to chew on wires. And those who can only afford a 500-dollar kit, a $60 cable loom is a big expense. Even though, buying the same number of individual cables could be more expensive.
Buying the same number of individual cables WILL be more expensive, the cheapest one I can find is $11 so that would be over $100 vs $60
And if you have a cheaper module you will have a cable snake (the evil cable snake) as Electrodrummer always says.
 
Even though, buying the same number of individual cables could be more expensive.
Probably, although it is not likely all cables will fail at the same time.

BTW: the DB-25 cable has worked flawlessly for me but my e-kit is setup permanently in my home studio so it doesn't get (re)connected at all, only a couple of times when moving gear around.
 
Thank you, looks great and the price is right, so now there is no excuse to fear "The evil cable snake".
But for my case I might need to buy two because I run 2 modules, so I might just end up making my own to reduce clutter. It will just be a very simple female to female plugs wired to each other inside the box and you just connect the snake to one end and the single cables to the other, I think I can make my custom box for a lot less than what two of them would cost me. (considering I have most of those parts already from years of drum builds. but hey I might get lazy and just pay... either way, thanks again.
 
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