How long has your ekit lasted?

green glass drum said:

Thanks Mr. Dog. I don't have a cymbal yet....because I have been trying to make my own stuff.
That 18" Pintech looks cool.
Will it talk to the Alesis IO?
My problem with the IO is....seperating the 2 zones on an input.
I get ghost notes of the other zone when I play real softly.
Tried some resistors across from A to B....but did not get it right....yet.
Thanks for the good info.

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Yes it will work perfectly fine with I/O I know because that was what I used for a long time and the Pintech cymbals are still being used in my kit now mixed with a bunch of Rolands. I am not sure how you separate zones using the I/O I never had to do that because it just had enough outputs for a regular 5 piece kit, but you have a little more than that...I recommend something like edrummin modules (well not modules because they work with midi but you have a more updated version of the I/O or you can get one to expand your I/O

Wait quick search turned this:

The inteface has ten TRS trigger inputs so you can use it with single or dual-zone pads and triggers, and even split the inputs with Y-cables for even larger custom setups. You can also use the Trigger|iO to expand the pad inputs of virtually and drum module from any manufacturer.

from this page:

I have used my TD-10 everyday for 20 years without any major issues. I have changed out the internal battery once and also had the power supply control board changed. I use it for rehearsals and the occasional live band radio show (where a live kit would just take way to long or be inappropriate for the space/slot). its longevity stems from the fact that It rarely moves out of my basement. Its a great practice tool, I am not joking when I say I only use 3 kits close to presets with minimal FX. Edrums are great for taking basic sticking patterns and working them into musical ideas pre band rehearsal or stage

Lifehack for (most?) of the Roland mesh head pads:

You can restore sensitivity by purchasing an overpriced replacement cone from Roland, or a still overpriced replacement cone from a third party.

Or you can just lift up the little metal piece the cone sits on with some washers.

doggyd69b said:

Yes it will work perfectly fine with I/O I know because that was what I used for a long time and the Pintech cymbals are still being used in my kit now mixed with a bunch of Rolands. I am not sure how you separate zones using the I/O I never had to do that because it just had enough outputs for a regular 5 piece kit, but you have a little more than that...I recommend something like edrummin modules (well not modules because they work with midi but you have a more updated version of the I/O or you can get one to expand your I/O

Audiofront - eDRUMin

www.audiofront.net

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+1 for Edrummin. Great product.

Bought my TD30KV second hand in 2020 and it's still going strong- haven't had to replace anything on it.

toddmc said:

Bought my TD30KV second hand in 2020 and it's still going strong- haven't had to replace anything on it.

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Built "Roland" tough.

I’ve only had my Yamaha Dtx10 with the tcs pads for about 3/4 years now, but although I’m a hobby drummer at home, they’ve been used almost every day for an hour on average and no problems or signs of wear. That’s a lot of hours use (retired person ).

None of my pads ever failed to trigger, but one of my CY-5's have developed a crack in the rubber in less than 5 years. I replaced it and it was fine for another 10 years.
The modules are more short-lived. My TD-9 stopped outputting any sound in 9 years. I used to have a used TD-12 (no idea how long it's been out of factory), which I played for about 1.5 years before it stopped outputting any sound soon after a gig.

Iristone said:

The modules are more short-lived. My TD-9 stopped outputting any sound in 9 years. I used to have a used TD-12 (no idea how long it's been out of factory), which I played for about 1.5 years before it stopped outputting any sound soon after a gig.

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While talking with a Sweetwater sales rep last week, he claimed Roland had the most durable pads/triggers. When I asked about their versioning of their brain/modules, he stated, “all electronics reach EOL eventually”.

What did you replace your TD-12 with?

cbphoto said:

While talking with a Sweetwater sales rep last week, he claimed Roland had the most durable pads/triggers. When I asked about their versioning of their brain/modules, he stated, “all electronics reach EOL eventually”.

What did you replace your TD-12 with?

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I bought the TD-12 with the intention of replacing my TD-9, so I just went back to the TD-9. Then I changed to a TD-17 but was ultimately unsatisfied with its sound. The TD-9 was repairable but quite costly, so I sold it to be used as a MIDI trigger.
Now I'm probably moving to Simmons. I like the hexagonal SD2000 design and mesh kick (Roland mesh kicks COST!). I also like the feel of Yamaha DTX pads, but I'll need to see how durable they are, respectively.

Birdy said:

I’ve only had my Yamaha Dtx10 with the tcs pads for about 3/4 years now, but although I’m a hobby drummer at home, they’ve been used almost every day for an hour on average and no problems or signs of wear. That’s a lot of hours use (retired person ).

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If you give them some love (meaning not bash the pads like they owe you money) they should last you a lifetime.
The big mistake a lot of "Drummers" do is to hit as hard as they can when playing an electronic kit.. completely ignoring the fact that there is a volume button. USE IT!

Jeff Graw said:

Lifehack for (most?) of the Roland mesh head pads:

You can restore sensitivity by purchasing an overpriced replacement cone from Roland, or a still overpriced replacement cone from a third party.

Or you can just lift up the little metal piece the cone sits on with some washers.

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Or you can get this which will work just fine:

Not expensive at all, almost cheaper than the washers (I know they are not) but you don't want to start Mcguivering your kit and then complain when it starts having issues. Fix things right the first time.

Iristone said:

None of my pads ever failed to trigger, but one of my CY-5's have developed a crack in the rubber in less than 5 years. I replaced it and it was fine for another 10 years.
The modules are more short-lived. My TD-9 stopped outputting any sound in 9 years. I used to have a used TD-12 (no idea how long it's been out of factory), which I played for about 1.5 years before it stopped outputting any sound soon after a gig.

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I don't know why but for me its been 15 years with the TD11 and about 18 years with the DM5 and the I/O and now about 3 years with the TD27 and all of them work flawlessly.
The other poster that said the rep told him that all electronics reach EOL sometime is wrong (the rep) (at least from my personal experience). Yes I know eventually somethings will fail but even if a module lasts you 9 years (say my TD27 that I bought for $1500 as a full kit) then if you break it down by year, I paid $150 a year to have an awesome module all that time. Not too expensive when you look at it that way.
and of course the sales rep wants you to give up on your old module and buy a new one.. Now if by EOL he meant they become obsolete,, I can agree with that. The DM5 lacks USB capabilities (yes you can go MIDI to USB but need to get a special cable). And while still a good module, it doesn't compare even to the TD11 in available features, so yes obsolete could mean EOL for some things.

Iristone said:

None of my pads ever failed to trigger, but one of my CY-5's have developed a crack in the rubber in less than 5 years. I replaced it and it was fine for another 10 years.
The modules are more short-lived. My TD-9 stopped outputting any sound in 9 years. I used to have a used TD-12 (no idea how long it's been out of factory), which I played for about 1.5 years before it stopped outputting any sound soon after a gig.

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Don't know how adventurous you are when it comes to troubleshooting electronics but if your module still turns on, it could be a single component that needs to be removed (desoldered) and replaced and it could cost you a couple of dollars to do, more if you don't have the tools, but still way cheaper than buying a new module, that is, if you liked your module and want to continue using it.

If you don't know how to troubleshoot electronics, a simple diagram can tell you how the signals travel from point A to point B, all you have to do is use a multimeter and test at the first component in the signal chain, if there is signal then you move to a component in the middle of that chain and test there, and finally at the end of the chain and test there.
It goes like this:
If you had say...100 things to test between A and B, you test number one, then test 50 and finally test 100.
You already know there will be no signal at 100 so then the problem is BEFORE that. so, if there is signal at 1 and at 50 then the problem is between 50 and 100 so you divide that in half and test at 75, if there is signal there, then the problem is after 75. You keep doing this (breaking things in half) until you find the culprit component. (That is if you can't visually see something amiss like an obviously burnt thing or desoldered).
Things happen, but if you managed to find it, replace it and get your module working, you will feel like the smartest one in the room.

Or, you can skip all that and just buy a new module.

Iristone said:

I bought the TD-12 with the intention of replacing my TD-9, so I just went back to the TD-9. Then I changed to a TD-17 but was ultimately unsatisfied with its sound. The TD-9 was repairable but quite costly, so I sold it to be used as a MIDI trigger.
Now I'm probably moving to Simmons. I like the hexagonal SD2000 design and mesh kick (Roland mesh kicks COST!). I also like the feel of Yamaha DTX pads, but I'll need to see how durable they are, respectively.

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Simmons is upping its game which is great, if you want a better bass drum that doesn't break the bank get this:

Or do like I am going to do get a footblaster trigger and use a real 22 inch bass drum (with a mesh head) to keep the noise down. still way cheaper (and better looking than Roland)

Finally, you might be disappointed with a Simmons module, like I said, they are upping their game but their modules still need some work.
And also if you had a Roland module, you could try some sound packs. There are some great ones at Vexpressions.com and they are quite affordable at around $75 each. Drum-Tec also offers those for even cheaper I believe.
The one thing that people don't realize is that when listening to the drums alone, they might not sound fantastic (they do sound great) but when listening to them in conjunction with the music, they just blend in perfectly.
Finally finally (yes twice finally), a lot of edrummers do themselves a huge disservice by not adjusting the module to THEIR playing style, Meaning, you have to go into the settings for each pad, (all drums and all cymbals) and adjust sensitivity and other things in order for the module to register your harder hits as well as your softest hits correctly thus giving you a much better experience.
Yes it takes a little bit of time to do that, but once you do, you will be amazed at how much better your drums respond, now you are able to play all kinds of things that you couldn't before (ghost notes and such). This is very important.

doggyd69b said:

If you give them some love (meaning not bash the pads like they owe you money) they should last you a lifetime.
The big mistake a lot of "Drummers" do is to hit as hard as they can when playing an electronic kit.. completely ignoring the fact that there is a volume button. USE IT!

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Exactly. Don't play like this clown and your gear will last a long time:

roncadillac said:

Exactly. Don't play like this clown and your gear will last a long time:

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If I had a sponsorship like he does.... I probably still wouldn't bash the drums like that, no need.

doggyd69b said:

Not expensive at all, almost cheaper than the washers (I know they are not) but you don't want to start Mcguivering your kit and then complain when it starts having issues. Fix things right the first time.

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Thing is, I have no idea how well "Bstinay" cones will work... or how poorly. Are they the right size, shape, and density? Replacing cones is not exactly reversible. Even somewhat degraded Roland cones are more of a known quantity.

Adding washers is 1/10th the effort of changing a cone, practically zero risk, and completely reversible. They can only possibly make things worse if you raise the cone too high... and that might also be a risk with some aftermarket cones.

I don't think there's any good reason *not* to experiment with washers if you're dealing with degraded sensitivity and don't want to shell out for 1st party. Worst case is they don't get the pad back to where you want it and you're out 10 minutes of time, and you can still order new cones.

Luckily I'm not a basher, so I can probably get a long life from a new Simmons or Yamaha kit. For kick drum I prefer a smaller pad which is more portable to small stages for quick gigs. I'd rather lug around my acoustic drums than an oversized, skueomorphic electronic kit!