Trick Dominators kind of dissapoint

Girl Punk

Junior Member
As far as quality goes they are second to none but with one big flaw for certain styles of music. About two inches from the head the pedal gets stiff so trying to get really fast speeds out of them when the resistance jumps up sucks. Some people recommended Axis sonic hammers to solve the problems but for the money I don't want to add on workarounds.

I need a pedal that's built like Trick but smooth like the flimsy Axis, back to the drum store!
 
have you tried adjusting spring tension, beater and footboard angles?
 
have you tried adjusting spring tension, beater and footboard angles?
Exactly. I think the orig. poster is giving up too early. Pretty every pedal has lots of adjustments and wile I never had/played Trick pedals I'm sure they have the usual adjustments to experiment with for hours. Finding the settings one likes best may take some time.
 
Exactly. I think the orig. poster is giving up too early. Pretty every pedal has lots of adjustments and wile I never had/played Trick pedals I'm sure they have the usual adjustments to experiment with for hours. Finding the settings one likes best may take some time.

Yeah I don't own a set of tricks but from seeing them in the shop and all the posts on here the amount of adjustments is limitless with them.
 
FYI, the Dominator is a longboard, which plays a large part in the overall feel and response. But I know the problem you're talking about. I experienced it with my Pro 1v pedals (same mechanics as the Dominator) and no amount of adjustment seemed to solve the problem. I eventually stopped using it.

Bermuda
 
Ill do my best to try to explain.
The problem is when the bearing moves down the post that sits between the spring it gets to a spot where the tension dramatically increases. So while the initial stroke might be super smooth there is extra resistance right at the end of the stroke so the beater slows down right before the head eating up a lot of the power.

Board height and any other adjustment doesn't help because of the spring design. Yes you can maybe solve it if I cut into my bass drum to move the pedal closer or if I add the Axis sonic hammer to avoid that last 2 inches of the stroke but even then its a maybe. After dropping $600 I don't want to have to mod or add on. I might as well get the Axis on ebay and save my self a few hundred.

Please don't get me wrong they are amazing pedals and I know I need to replace my Iron cobras but the price is to much for having to do a work around. I do need a set of pedals that I can throw on any bass drum and go.
 
Youi wouldn't need to add a sonic hammer, simply rotate the existing beater forward so it makes contact with the head before the spring chokes. Of course, that changes the stroke and playability dramatically. But the sonic hammer would do the same thing, so...

Bermuda
 
I think the 'choking' problem is made worse by starting out with a moderate-high spring tension. By the time the pedal gets to the end of its stroke when the beater meets the head, the tension is really high. Such is the nature of a simple tension device like a spring or a blade. When the Trick pedals are set fairly loose, they feel great and pretty even throughout the stroke. But, for those of us who don't happen to prefer that feel, it can be a problem.

Accelerator/eccentric cams combat the problem somewhat, and that's why I went back to a chain-drive pedal after 5 years of using the Trick. My foot missed the old familiar feel.

Bermuda
 
Please don't take offense at my comments...but there's nothing wrong with the pedal..it's how you have it set up..spend some time getting the adjustments right and the pedal will be right...however, you may not like how a direct drive pedal feels; personally, I do, although it wasn't always that way.. It took a little time to get my axis pedals feeling right, but now I wouldn't trade them for any chain drive pedal...good luck!
 
Last edited:
I too never had this issue with my Trick Pro1V pedal, but then again I never had mine cranked to the point where I needed two feet on one pedal to get the beater to meet the head. I have most of my pedals adjusted on the loose to medium tension side, depending on the beater's weight. At my age I just don't need the extra resistance fighting me.

The Pro1V is probably the most adjustable pedal that I've ever played. I particularly like the adjustment for the different hoop widths. I only ever played the Dominator once that I can remember, so if this problem is model specific, sorry I can't help very much.

Dennis
 
There is some misunderstanding and I guess I have to be blunt about it. Maybe they are just not for me but I have adjusted and tweaked for hours on and and for days and days and just could never get that sweet spot. With Iron cobras I can keep a steady 260bpm and they are 10 years old and floppy and worn. So I'm not a re re when it comes to setting up pedals nor is it rocket science, but if a pedal has a problem area like that and I'm not the first to bring it up and a simple solution isn't possible the pedal is just not for some people.

I know the pro version is a lot more adjustable and would probably solve the problem but for about $850 it just doesn't make sense for me. So again no adjustment combination worked for me personally.
 
Because of how the spring is designed you really don't need to tighten up the tension much, I have my pedal set up with the spring at a little less than half tension. They still come back as fast as anyone would ever need them too, but the problem with them becoming to tight at the end of the stroke is eliminated. I know it's hard to think that a looser spring will make pedal more usable at fast speeds, but it really does work.
 
Its the nature of the compression spring, they progressively get harder as they compress and it happens quicker. Extension springs are not as drastic.



flimsy Axis

What's 'flimsy' about an AXIS?



This may be what you're looking for. Trick should release an extension spring pedal, the market says "Why the 'ell not?"
 
And so it goes, with this pedal thang. Which is why they say "play 'em before you buy 'em". When Axis first came out, I tried one. At the NAMM show. Didn't care for it. And every chance I get to play one, I do. And I've had a lot of chances. Always the same result. So ..... I don't own one. For a single pedal, I use a Yamaha 9410. I own three. For a double pedal, I own a Sleishman. That's it. That's what I found I like. Everyone's different. And it sounds to me like the Tama pedals work better for you, than the Tricks. So why fight the Tricks? An upgrade isn't an upgrade, unless you get better performance. Spending more money to get less performance ...... is a waste of money.​
 
I can add that I played AXIS pedals for 10 years, now they're sitting collecting dust. Its a great pedal, Im just into a different feel right now.

I play a PEARL 902... used one on a rental kit, now own it. Too lazy to go looking for something else.

Like HARRY said, "what works for you". Guess we're conditioned to think more $ means its going to be better in every way, that the expensive gear will comply just b/c its expensive.

The TRICKS may be worth $700+ to some people, but only the people who like them.

I've played TRICKS and I like my cheap PEARL 902 better. I might like something more than the PEARL, but its going to have to fall in my lap like the PEARL did, Im not going hunting.
 
I think this all comes down to a simple chain vs direct drive problem. The OP says she's tried every adjustment in the book and still can't find that sweet spot and also says she's been playing cobras for 10 years. That's a long time for muscle memory to become accustomed to the feel of chain drives, it will obviously take a long time to adjust to the new feel (if ever).
 
it will obviously take a long time to adjust to the new feel (if ever).

My experience says 6 hrs of practice on it, or one (3-4hr) gig to burn in a new pedal. If its not comfortable by then, I'd be looking for something else.

The new pedal should mirror the set-up/adjustments of your old one(s). If you're not feeling something good right away its probably going to take stool height, stool distance adjustments, maybe angle of stool to pedal... then you're into some major work.

If you spend $700+ you're going to 'want to like' the pedal(s) so be prepared to mess around with your whole approach/set-up if they feel bad right out the gate.
 
I actually no exactly what you talking about ...
To bad I'm 12 years to late to talk about it ..anyhow ... I have the same sluggish issues with my dominator not only am I trying blast out really fast double bass, but when try to do fast articulate patterns , it's like running throw mud .ironically the pedal,aside from these issues, is a flawless machine adjustment are exactly where I set them these are set just two singles.
I've noticed , what I think is the issue ...its rebound. On my iron cobras , they ran standard pedal springs except tamas are a little heavier , for tension ..I ran on the joey jordison school of putting the tension the absolute max!!! What this does ,is gives you this almost instant re-bound (after you've strengthened you legs) .and the gives to instant reaction time , I can only imagine house more pronounced the effect would be if my old cobras came those cobra coils (underside springs ) all of tama"s new pedals are fitted with.
Sadly I think this is where are trick pedal falls short when I lay into my bass pedal ...eh . it. just sorta makes its way back ,,,:lol... The rebound is awful its quit as lightning TO the head ....but sorta gets back whenever ...lol
There's is a pedal company that makes the Darwin ftw pedals, that offers a ray of hope it's a one man op. This company and he offers parts built to replace and remedy some of these issues ..and it all sounds awesome ...

But at the end of the day, I'm just gonna go back to my tama roots and buy me those dyna- sync pedals :)
If I follow through on it I'll post again
I think you look at better pedal options as well.
Good luck
 
Back
Top