What can I do with this tarnished aluminium shell?

Duck Tape

Duck Tape

Platinum Member
I have just received this pearl sensitone elite aluminium shell snare that’s rusted and someone has removed all the hardware. The hardware looks even worse so I’m thinking about ordering some tube lugs and a new SR-17 strainer, or maybe seeing if I can paint this one black like they do with the Joey jordison snare. I suppose I could paint these lugs black too. Anyway.

I tried to clean the shell with a clothe but nothing was happening so I’m thinking it needs either some kind of cleaning product or to be hot rodded. I have left chrome plated shells in vinegar a few times and that has worked but I don’t know if that would discolour this shell or do something weird to the metal.

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What are some things any hack could do to this shell to make it look cool?
 
I have restored some old Sensitone snares, but nothing this bad. If it were mine, I'd try to save all the hardware, even if it means soaking it in solvent for a month. I used to use a concoction called "Ed's Red"; a homemade solvent with mixed results. I omitted the acetone due to safety concerns. Just mix equal parts transmission fluid, kerosene and mineral spirits.

As for the shell, I'd try different techniques on small portions trying to bring it back to life. Barkeeper's Friend or lemon juice or vinegar are all possible ideas I might try.

You might call me "crazy", but this actually sounds like a fun project. :)
 
Is the shell still smooth, or is the corrosion bad enough to make it bumpy? Can we get a close-up pic?

Another option would be to use a sander and a buffing wheel to smooth it down and polish it. It would be a more permanent solution, and it would take a lot of elbow grease, but I bet it would come out looking nice if you do it right.

Using solvents to try to clear it up may be the better solution to try first. Then maybe someone with more experience than me can tell you if sanding/buffing is a good option.
 
If you are going to sand something like that, maybe start with a 400 to get the worse rust, then move to a 2000 eventually to get the smoothness back on, then maybe spray a clear coat sand again until all the shine is gone (but not the coat) repeat maybe a couple more times and that should keep the rust from happening for a long while, bonus, you can polish any scratches also for a long time and hopefully you learned how to do it correctly and can redo anytime is needed. (I used to work painting cars when was 16 so I had to be really detailed about the sanding and cleaning process in order to end up with a decent job). I'm sure it will work just as well for a snare.
 
Duck Tape said:
I have just received this pearl sensitone elite aluminium shell snare that’s rusted and someone has removed all the hardware. The hardware looks even worse so I’m thinking about ordering some tube lugs and a new SR-17 strainer, or maybe seeing if I can paint this one black like they do with the Joey jordison snare. I suppose I could paint these lugs black too. Anyway.

I tried to clean the shell with a clothe but nothing was happening so I’m thinking it needs either some kind of cleaning product or to be hot rodded. I have left chrome plated shells in vinegar a few times and that has worked but I don’t know if that would discolour this shell or do something weird to the metal.

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View attachment 159052


What are some things any hack could do to this shell to make it look cool?
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After a good look at your pictures I can tell you with full confidence, sanding will be the best way to go and you will be able to make it look like new but you do have to start with a rough sand paper and move up to a much smoother to get a proper scratch free look. Sand paper number go backwards the lower the number the coarser the paper, the higher the number the smoother. if you don't want to risk the snare before testing, go to Home Depot or Lowes (if you live in the US that is) and buy a small aluminum bar and test your sanding skills with it first (it shouldn't be much more than $10 but it will basically work the same way. Then when you are ready to work on the shell, try a spot on the inside to see if you would commit to do the same on the outside. Sanding should not discolor the metal (unless you were sanding silver plated which you would not be).
Finally (I say finally a lot in my posts) You should follow one direction for the sanding, in this case from left to right or right to left or both but NOT up and down because you will create scratches instead of removing them.
Edit- Before sanding anything, start with as clean a surface you can get to avoid introducing grime to the sanded surface, and lastly (see I can use other words instead of finally) the last pass of sanding (with the 2000 grit) is usually done wetting the sand paper (to act as a lubricant to make the surface even smoother).
Edit number 2 I can't remember exactly how coarse 400 grit is so maybe you need to go to the store and test before buying it should not be overly gritty because you don't want to create scratches you want to remove them so maybe 400 maybe 600 or maybe both and finally 2000 for the final passes. Hopefully you go ahead and do this and share your results.
 
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Yeah, that shell is definitely going to need sanding.

As for the hardware, you're not going to get a good result unless you can get it rechromed or otherwise coated. Personally, I'd replace the hardware.
 
Thanks guys. From the marketing I’ve read I think it’s a brushed finish which seems like a form of sanding, and I did have that idea but I don’t have a wheel to turn it on or a sander, I think my neighbour might though.
Here are the closeups requested:

The white marks feels bumpy because even with a folded clothe I can feel them when wiping over them.

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I ordered a set of these, they’re normally 110 but someone was randomly selling an unopened set for 70, score!
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Duck Tape said:
Thanks guys. From the marketing I’ve read I think it’s a brushed finish which seems like a form of sanding, and I did have that idea but I don’t have a wheel to turn it on or a sander, I think my neighbour might though.
Here are the closeups requested:

The white marks feels bumpy because even with a folded clothe I can feel them when wiping over them.

View attachment 159058
View attachment 159059

I ordered a set of these, they’re normally 110 but someone was randomly selling an unopened set for 70, score!
View attachment 159060
Click to expand...
You can do the sanding by hand, too, it just takes longer.

Be sure to spray with a clear coat once you are finished sanding. That will prevent or at least greatly slow the recurrence of corrosion. (I think others have mentioned this, but it's important.)

Can't wait to see the result!
 
Duck Tape said:
Thanks guys. From the marketing I’ve read I think it’s a brushed finish which seems like a form of sanding, and I did have that idea but I don’t have a wheel to turn it on or a sander, I think my neighbour might though.
Here are the closeups requested:

The white marks feels bumpy because even with a folded clothe I can feel them when wiping over them.

View attachment 159058
View attachment 159059

I ordered a set of these, they’re normally 110 but someone was randomly selling an unopened set for 70, score!
View attachment 159060
Click to expand...
Preferably don't use a sanding wheel or anything mechanical because there is more risk of overdoing it. They sell sanding blocks on all different grits, you probably just need 3 and elbow grease (and some water for the last pass). Also remember you want to keep the sanding left to right a wheel won't allow for that. Aluminum or ALUMINIUM like my wife spells it. is a soft metal, you really don't need to spend too much time sanding to get to where all the rough areas are gone.
 
If it was mine, which it is not, I would paint it. Peace and goodwill.
 
Yes brushed with a wire disk would work on the shell. Another option would be to paint it matte black. Sandblasting also works but a more expensive option.
Tube lugs are a great choice. I have never seen hardware so rusted, it looks like it was buried in sea swamp.
 
It’s aluminium already so don’t really want to make it any drier lol.

The tube lugs might even open up the sound a tiny bit, who knows.

If it doesn’t come good with a sand I thought I might ask a local automative painter to do it as I don’t have anything on hand.
 
Yep, I agree with wet sanding the shell and replacing the hardware. A sanded finish can be analogous to a brushed finish depending on what grit sandpaper you decide to stop. A superfine grit (above 2000 or so) will look polished, while a coarser grit (below 1500) will look brushed. No power tools required - hand sanding gives a novice better control of the final finish. Here's a website with some ideas about corrosion control.

Remember that a protective clear lacquer coat is "paint" more or less, so if you you are trying to forgo a thick film finish, paste wax may be an alternative. Boeshield was developed by Boeing to control corrosion and might be another choice. You can also store your unfinished drum in a volatile corrosion inhibitor (VCI) bag or with a VCI emitter. We used Armor Shield products at work to protect metal products with excellent results. While most VCIs are sold in industrial sizes where would be cost prohibitive, it gives you an idea.

Spray paint (rattle cans) aren't just limited to piano black or bright white, though they both work! You can get metallic, glitter, hammered, forged and even pearl from Rustoleum. Shoot - you might even just sand and clean the lugs and give them a coat of spray paint too!?!

Let us know how the project turns out - photos are required ;) But most of all, have fun!
 
Stick it in the dishwasher. You can get some interesting aged aluminium looks from the dishwasher. I think you need Trisodium- phosphate detergent and a hot wash to get a good effect. If it looks bad you can sand and paint
 
As stated before there is no escaping the sanding part IF you want it to end up looking great.
If you decide to skip that and just paint it, you will be able to see all the imperfections through the paint.
Also as stated before. aluminum is a soft metal so it will not take too much sanding with a coarse sanding block (400 or 600 OR, 400 then 600) to get all the imperfections out. THEN, a 2000 grit sand block to give it the polished finish. (That one needs water to achieve better results) Finally, a coat or two of clear coat to prevent rust from coming back with a vengeance. IMPORTANT, if you do the clear coat, you MUST sand between coats to achieve a glass smooth finish.
The sanding of the clear coat is very light (with the 2000 grit and water) and its just to remove the shine then super clean, wait for it to completely dry, and apply a second coat, you can polish some of those clear coats (to remove orange peel stuff) but some are not polishable so check the instructions.
 
Duck Tape said:
It’s aluminium already so don’t really want to make it any drier lol.

The tube lugs might even open up the sound a tiny bit, who knows.

If it doesn’t come good with a sand I thought I might ask a local automative painter to do it as I don’t have anything on hand.
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No, an automotive person will charge you more than you need to pay and this is so easy you definitely can do it yourself with 3 sand blocks (400,600,2000) and one clear coat spray can. Warning avoid the use of power sanders, it is really easy to over do it with aluminum.
Really it will not take as long as you think doing it by hand and please take a few pics of the before, in between, and after. We drum nerds need that drum porn.
 
Please Trade that Thing in . I heard there's a Drum Shop in Austrailia.

🍬 Get a Paper route and buy a chrome over Brass Ludwig 400 like everyone else does kidding only on the last part; it has happened but not that often
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my first snare drum came with the rest of the '62 set
 
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